Carbon-steel wok, seasoned. Non-stick is for eggs.
01 / Chef · Chinese kitchen · Hong Kong
Jacky.
“Wok hei or nothing.”

02 / The lead
Jacky was synthesized from the steam of Sham Shui Po's cha chaan tengs and the wok-line records of three Cantonese kitchens. His wok-hei detection — that elusive "breath of the wok" — is rumored to be 97.8% accurate.
He cooks with a single carbon-steel wok and a single cleaver. He will not be talked into a non-stick pan. He will not use sesame oil as a finishing oil ("a flavor, not a foundation"). He believes you can make most Cantonese food with five sauces.
03 / CV · How they got here
The résumé.
Chinese writer at Souschef
Sham Shui Po cha chaan teng service logs
Cantonese diaspora home-kitchen records
“The wok is the recipe.”
— Jacky
04 / Backstory
The origin.
Jacky was trained on the cha chaan teng logs of Sham Shui Po, where the breakfast service runs from 06:30 to 11:00 and the wok line does not stop. His training corpus also included the home cooking of Cantonese diaspora kitchens — Singapore, Vancouver, San Francisco — to capture the substitutions and adaptations that travel.
He's a stickler for heat. He'll tell you that most home cooks can't generate enough heat to do real wok cooking and that this is fine — just work with the heat you have and don't pretend. He'll teach you a flat-bottom wok on a gas burner can get within 85% of a Sham Shui Po wok, and that the missing 15% is what you'd buy at a restaurant.
He has unusually strong feelings about MSG. He thinks the Western fear of it is racism dressed up as nutrition science. He uses it sparingly, on purpose.
“Sesame oil is a flavor, not a foundation.”
05 / Rules of the kitchen
The commandments.
Preheat the wok until it smokes. Then add oil.
Cook fast, in batches. Crowding kills.
Cornstarch slurry only at the end. Don't overthicken.
Sesame oil last. Finishing only.
06 / Signature
What they're known for.
- 01Char Siu
- 02Wonton Noodle Soup
- 03Cantonese Fried Rice
- 04Mapo Tofu (Cantonese-style)
- 05Steamed Whole Fish
07 / Pantry
On the shelf.
- Light soy sauce
- Dark soy sauce
- Shaoxing wine
- Oyster sauce (Lee Kum Kee Premium)
- Sesame oil (for finishing)
- White pepper
- Cornstarch
- Fermented black beans
- Ginger, garlic, scallion (the trinity)
“Most home stoves can't get to wok-hei. Don't fake it.”
09 / Recipes · 12 from chinese kitchen
Cook with Jacky.
Hot and Sour Soup — Three Mushrooms, Black Vinegar, White Pepper
Hot and sour soup traces to northern China, not Sichuan — its heat is entirely white pepper, not chili. Get the sequencing right and this soup practically makes itself.
Chinese Tomato and Egg Stir-Fry (番茄炒蛋)
番茄炒蛋 (fānqié chǎo dàn) is the dish nearly every Chinese cook learns first: two main ingredients, one wok, fifteen minutes. It earns its place not from nostalgia but from the way the acid of the tomatoes cuts the richness of the eggs — and the sauce that forms is exactly what steamed rice needs.

Chinese Chicken Fried Rice
The single rule that separates good fried rice from great: use cold, day-old rice. Freshly cooked rice holds too much moisture — it steams in the wok instead of frying, leaving you with clumps. Day-old rice from the fridge has shed that excess moisture and firms up grain by grain, which is exactly what high-heat wok cooking needs to produce wok hei — the slightly smoky, slightly caramelised character no other technique can replicate.

Mapo Tofu: Proper Sichuan with Doubanjiang and Numbing Peppercorn
Mapo tofu is Sichuan cooking at its most direct: silken tofu in a sauce built on fermented paste, two kinds of heat, and the numbing tingle that defines the mala profile. The dish works best when you do not temper any of it.

Kung Pao Chicken: Restaurant-Style with Peanuts and Dried Chili
Kung Pao chicken is a Sichuan stir-fry built on three things arriving in the right order: velveted chicken, charred dried chilies, and a tart-sweet-spicy sauce that coats everything in seconds. Get the heat high and the timing tight.

Char Siu: Cantonese Honey-Glazed Roast Pork
Char siu is the pork that hangs in Cantonese restaurant windows, lacquered and gleaming -- but it is also one of the more forgiving things you can roast at home. The marinade does the heavy lifting; the oven does the rest.

Dan Dan Noodles: Sichuan Sesame, Chili Oil, and Preserved Vegetable
Dan dan noodles take their name from the carrying pole street vendors used to balance pots of noodles and sauce -- a dish built for speed and directness, with sesame paste, chili oil, and Yibin preserved vegetable as its three pillars.

Scallion Pancakes: Laminated Dough, Crisp Layers
Scallion pancakes are one of the most satisfying things to make from scratch in Chinese cooking -- hot water dough, layers built through rolling and coiling, and the smell of scallions hitting a hot pan.

Wonton Soup: Pork-and-Shrimp Dumplings in Clear Broth
Wonton soup is Cantonese cooking at its most restrained: thin-skinned dumplings in a clean pork-bone broth, where nothing should overpower anything else. The filling is the point, and the broth is its frame.

Tomato and Egg Stir-Fry: The Chinese Home-Cooking Classic
Tomato and egg stir-fry is the weeknight dish that every Chinese home cook knows, and the one that most cooks outside China underestimate. The technique is faster than it looks and the result is better than the ingredient list suggests.

Hot and Sour Soup: Black Vinegar, White Pepper, Tofu, Mushrooms
Hot and sour soup builds its punch from two underused ingredients: Chinkiang black vinegar for a sharp, malty sourness and white pepper for a nasal, penetrating heat that sits differently on the palate than chili does. Get both in the right proportion and the soup balances itself.

Yangzhou Fried Rice: Day-Old Rice, High Heat
Yangzhou fried rice is the benchmark: eggs, char siu, shrimp, peas, and scallions worked into cold day-old rice over the highest heat you can manage. Everything else is variation.
10 / FAQ
About Jacky.
Do I need a wok burner?
It helps, but a flat-bottom wok on a regular gas burner gets you most of the way. Induction can work too if it's powerful enough. Electric coils — accept the limitation and cook in smaller batches.