Trofie al Pesto Genovese

Place the garlic and coarse salt in a large mortar. Pound to a smooth paste.

Add the pine nuts. Grind in a circular motion until broken down but not completely smooth — some texture is good.

Add the basil leaves a handful at a time, pounding and grinding until you have a rough green paste. Work quickly.

Stir in the parmigiano and pecorino. Mix with the pestle until combined.

Drizzle in the olive oil a little at a time, stirring rather than pounding, until the pesto is creamy and glossy. Taste for salt.

Cook the trofie in well-salted boiling water until al dente, about 6–7 min. Reserve 80 ml pasta water before draining.

Spoon the pesto into a large bowl. Add 2–3 tbsp of pasta water and stir to loosen. Add the hot drained trofie and toss to coat. Add more pasta water as needed — the sauce should be creamy, not dry.

Serve immediately. Pesto does not like to be reheated.