Acquacotta — How Italian Shepherds Turned Stale Bread Into a Feast

Peel and thinly slice the onions. Trim and slice the celery stalks and leaves into 5 mm pieces.

Heat 60 ml of the olive oil in a large heavy pot over low heat. Add the onions, celery, and peperoncino. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 20-25 minutes until completely soft and golden. Do not rush this — it builds the entire flavour base.

Add the tomatoes, crushing them with your hands as they go in or breaking them up with a wooden spoon. Cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until they collapse into the soffritto.

Pour in 1.2 litres of water. Season generously with salt. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook uncovered for 15 minutes. Taste and adjust salt.

While the broth simmers, place 2 thick slices of stale bread in each of four deep bowls. The bread must be completely dry — if it has any give, toast it briefly in a dry pan or under the grill first.

Reduce heat so the broth is barely trembling, not boiling. Crack each egg into a small cup. Slide the eggs one at a time into the broth. Poach for 3-4 minutes until the white is just set but the yolk remains runny.

Tear the basil leaves into the broth and stir once.

Ladle the hot broth generously over the bread in each bowl — the bread will begin absorbing immediately.

Using a slotted spoon, lift one poached egg from the broth and place it on top of each bowl.

Drizzle with the remaining 20 ml of olive oil. Scatter Pecorino generously over the top. Serve immediately.