Supplì al Telefono: Rome's Molten Rice Croquettes

Warm the olive oil in a wide saucepan over medium heat. Add the diced onion and cook, stirring occasionally, for 8–10 minutes until soft and translucent with no colour.

Add the rice and stir for 1 minute to coat each grain in the oil. Pour in the white wine and stir until fully absorbed, about 1 minute.

Stir in the passata and let it reduce for 2 minutes. Begin adding warm stock a ladle at a time, stirring after each addition and waiting until absorbed before adding the next. Continue for 20–25 minutes until the rice is soft and almost porridge-like — stickier than al dente. This is intentional.

Remove from heat. Stir in the grated Parmigiano and one egg yolk. If using ragù, fold it in now. Season generously with salt — the rice should taste well-seasoned while hot, as the flavour dulls when cold.

Spread the rice in an even layer roughly 2 cm thick on a large baking tray. Cool to room temperature, then refrigerate uncovered for at least 2 hours or overnight. The rice must be cold and firm before shaping — warm rice falls apart.

Cut the mozzarella into 2 cm cubes. Pat them thoroughly dry with paper towels. If time allows, leave the cubes uncovered in the fridge for an hour before use — drier mozzarella gives a cleaner stretch and less interior moisture.

Set up your coating station: beat the remaining egg in a shallow bowl; spread the breadcrumbs in a separate shallow dish.

With lightly dampened hands, scoop roughly 80 g of cold rice and flatten it in your palm. Place one mozzarella cube in the centre, then press the rice firmly around it, sealing completely into a compact oval about 8 cm long. No air pockets or gaps — any opening lets oil in and mozzarella out during frying.

Roll each supplì in the beaten egg, letting excess drip off, then roll firmly in breadcrumbs, pressing to coat evenly. Set on a clean tray. Repeat with remaining rice and mozzarella.

Pour sunflower oil into a deep, heavy-based pot to at least 8 cm depth. Heat to 175°C (350°F). Fry in batches of 3–4 for 3–4 minutes, turning once, until evenly deep golden brown. Crowding drops the temperature and makes the crust greasy instead of crisp.

Lift out with a slotted spoon and drain on a wire rack or paper towels. Season immediately with a pinch of fine salt. Serve hot — pull one apart at the table to reveal the mozzarella stretch.