Tortellini in Brodo: Ring Pasta in Perfect Capon Broth

Place the capon and beef in a large pot (at least 8 L). Add the celery, carrot, onion, and Parmigiano rind. Pour in 3 L cold water — starting cold helps proteins coagulate into scum on the surface rather than staying in the broth. Bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat; do not let it boil.

Skim the surface diligently for the first 15–20 minutes as grey scum rises. Once the broth runs clear, reduce heat to a low, steady simmer and cook uncovered for 2 hours, skimming occasionally.

Meanwhile, melt the butter in a small frying pan over medium heat. Season the pork loin with a pinch of salt and sauté for 8–10 minutes, turning, until cooked through and lightly golden. Remove from the pan and cool completely — at least 20 minutes. Do not proceed while it is still warm.

Blitz the cooled pork loin, prosciutto di Parma, and mortadella in a food processor until a smooth, fine paste forms. Transfer to a bowl and mix in the grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, whole egg, and a generous grating of nutmeg. The mixture should hold its shape when pressed into a ball. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.

Make the pasta dough: mound the flour on a clean surface and make a wide well in the centre. Crack in 3 eggs and beat lightly with a fork, incorporating flour from the inside out. Once too stiff to fork, knead by hand for 10 minutes until the dough is smooth, elastic, and no longer sticky. Wrap tightly in cling film and rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.

Divide the rested dough into 4 portions. Roll each portion through a pasta machine, stepping down from the widest setting to setting 5 or 6 (approximately 1 mm) — the sheet should be translucent when held to light but not tear. Keep unworked portions covered. Cut into 4–5 cm squares.

Place a pea-sized amount of chilled filling (about 3 g) in the centre of each square — no more, or the seal will break. Fold the square diagonally into a triangle, pressing firmly from the filling outward to expel all air, then seal the edges. Wrap the triangle around your index finger with the filled point upward and press the two bottom corners firmly together to form the ring. Set on a lightly floured tray and keep covered.

Strain the finished broth through a fine-mesh sieve lined with two layers of dampened cheesecloth into a clean pot. Discard all solids. Season with fine sea salt now — only after straining, or it concentrates unpredictably. The broth should be clear and a deep gold colour. Bring to a steady simmer over medium heat.

Cook the tortellini directly in the simmering broth — not in salted water. Keep the heat at a gentle simmer, not a rolling boil; aggressive boiling bursts the seals. Cook for 3–5 minutes until the pasta is just cooked through and the filling is hot at the centre. Cut one open to check.

Ladle broth and tortellini into warmed shallow bowls — about 10 tortellini per person with plenty of broth. Serve immediately with Parmigiano-Reggiano grated generously at the table.