Carbonara Done Right: Silky, Uncreamed, Unmistakably Roman

Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Add 1 tbsp salt and cook the spaghetti for 1 minute less than the package time.

While the water heats, cut guanciale into roughly 5 mm strips or lardons.

In a bowl, whisk 3 egg yolks and 1 whole egg with all the finely grated Pecorino Romano and a very generous grind of black pepper (at least 2 g) until you have a thick, pale paste. Set aside.

Place the guanciale strips in a cold pan over medium-low heat. Render slowly for 8–10 minutes until the fat has run out freely. Raise heat briefly to lightly crisp the edges, then remove from the heat entirely.

Just before draining the pasta, reserve 250 ml (1 cup) of starchy pasta water. The water should be hot — not boiling — when you use it.

Drain the spaghetti and add it directly to the pan with the guanciale and all its rendered fat. Toss well to coat every strand.

Move the pan off any heat source. Add the egg-cheese paste and toss rapidly using tongs, moving continuously to combine.

Add pasta water in 30–40 ml splashes, tossing after each addition. Continue until the sauce is glossy and clings to the pasta without pooling — typically 80–120 ml total.

Divide between two warmed bowls. Finish with an extra grind of black pepper and a pinch of Pecorino. Serve immediately.