Sfogliatella Riccia — The Art of the Layered Shell Pastry

Make the dough: combine 500g 00 flour, 5g fine salt, and 15g honey in a bowl. Add 180ml lukewarm water gradually, mixing until a shaggy dough forms. Turn out and knead for 8–10 minutes until smooth and stiff — noticeably stiffer than pasta dough. Wrap tightly in cling film and rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.

Make the semolino paste: bring 150ml water and 100ml whole milk to a boil in a small saucepan. Whisk in 100g semolino in a thin, steady stream. Reduce to medium heat and stir constantly for 5–7 minutes until the paste is very thick and pulls cleanly away from the sides of the pan. Spread onto a plate, press cling film directly onto the surface to prevent a skin, and cool completely to room temperature.

Make the filling: beat the cooled semolino paste smooth with a fork in a large bowl. Add 500g drained ricotta, 120g caster sugar, 2 eggs, 80g finely chopped candied orange peel, 0.5 tsp ground cinnamon, and the seeds scraped from 1 vanilla bean. Mix until uniform. The filling must be stiff enough that a spoon stands upright in it — if it slumps, the cones will leak during baking. Refrigerate until ready to fill.

Laminate the dough: on a very lightly floured surface, roll the rested dough into the thinnest possible sheet — aim for 1–2mm, ideally almost translucent. Work in two halves if the sheet becomes unwieldy. Brush the entire surface generously with softened lard (spreadable, not melted). Starting from the long edge, roll tightly into a log as compact as possible. Wrap firmly in cling film and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, or overnight. The log must be very firm before slicing.

Shape the cones: remove the chilled log from the fridge and unwrap. Using a sharp knife, slice into 1cm discs. Hold each disc between your thumbs and index fingers with the cut face toward you. Applying gentle pressure from the centre outward in a rotating motion — like slowly spinning a small wheel — push the centre of the disc forward until a cone forms and the layers fan out. The open end should be 7–8cm across; the cone 6–7cm deep. The motion becomes intuitive after 3–4 attempts.

Fill and seal: spoon 2–3 tablespoons of chilled filling into each cone, pressing it toward the tip with the back of the spoon. Leave a 5mm border at the open end. Pinch the open edge firmly closed, pressing the layered pastry together with your fingertips. Place on parchment-lined baking trays sealed side down.

Preheat the oven to 200°C (fan 190°C, gas mark 6). Brush the exterior of each sfogliatella lightly with any remaining softened lard to add colour and help the outer layer crisp.

Bake for 20–25 minutes until deep golden brown. Rotate the tray once at the halfway point. The pastries should feel rigid and sound slightly hollow when tapped on the base.

Dust generously with icing sugar the moment they come out of the oven — the sugar melts into the hot crevices and is part of the experience. Serve immediately. Sfogliatella is at its best within 15 minutes of baking; the shell softens as steam from the filling migrates outward.