Mastering Risotto: Mantecatura and the All'Onda Finish

Pour the stock into a saucepan and bring to a gentle simmer over low heat. Keep it at a steady simmer throughout — cold stock shocks the rice and breaks the cooking rhythm.

In a wide, heavy-bottomed pan, melt 40g of the butter with the olive oil over medium-low heat. Add the onion with a pinch of salt and cook, stirring occasionally, for 8 minutes until completely soft and translucent. It should not colour.

Tostatura: add the Carnaroli rice directly to the pan — do not rinse it first. Raise heat to medium and stir constantly for 2–3 minutes until every grain is coated in fat and the edges turn slightly translucent. You'll hear a faint crackling.

Pour in the white wine and stir. Let it absorb completely, about 1 minute, before adding any stock. You should smell the alcohol cook off.

Add one ladle (about 120 ml) of hot stock and stir every 20–30 seconds. Once absorbed, add the next ladle. Maintain a lively simmer — not a boil. Continue this rhythm, tasting from the 15-minute mark.

After 18–22 minutes the rice should be al dente with a slight bite at the center and the mixture will look a little loose. That is correct. Remove the pan from heat entirely.

Mantecatura: add the remaining 40g of cold butter (cut into small cubes) and all the Parmigiano-Reggiano. Beat vigorously with a wooden spoon or silicone spatula for 2 minutes — part stir, part fold. The risotto will become glossy and creamy.

Taste and adjust salt and white pepper. If it is too thick, stir in a small splash of hot stock. Tilt the pan — the risotto should move like a slow wave (all'onda). Rest uncovered for 1 minute, then serve immediately in warm bowls.