Risotto ai Frutti di Mare — Silky Seafood Risotto with Proper Mantecatura

Heat 1 tbsp olive oil in a wide pan over high heat. Add 1 crushed garlic clove, then the mussels and clams. Pour in 100 ml of the wine, cover tightly, and steam for 3–4 minutes until the shells open. Discard any that stay closed.

Lift out the shellfish and shuck the meat; set aside. Strain the steaming liquid through a fine-mesh sieve lined with a cloth into a jug. Add this to the warm fish stock to make up roughly 700 ml total liquid. Keep it warm over low heat.

In a wide, heavy-bottomed saucepan, heat the remaining 1 tbsp olive oil over medium heat. Add the shallots with a pinch of salt and cook, stirring, for 4–5 minutes until completely soft and translucent — no browning.

Add the remaining 2 garlic cloves, minced, and stir for 1 minute. Add the Carnaroli rice and toast for 2 minutes, stirring constantly, until the edges of each grain turn translucent.

Pour in the remaining 50 ml of wine. Stir until fully absorbed, 1–2 minutes. The pan will smell intensely of wine — that sharpness should cook off completely before you add stock.

Add a ladleful (about 120 ml) of warm stock. Stir steadily and almost constantly, adjusting heat to maintain a lively simmer. Add the next ladle only once the previous one is absorbed. Continue for 13–14 minutes.

When the rice is about 5 minutes from done (still quite firm at the centre), add the shrimp. Stir them into the risotto — they will turn pink as the rice finishes.

With 90 seconds left, add the squid rings. Stir them in and cook exactly 90 seconds. Beyond that and they will toughen. The rice should be al dente — cooked through with just a slight resistance.

Pull the pan completely off the heat. Add the cold diced butter and a splash (about 2 tbsp) of the reserved shellfish steaming liquid. Beat vigorously in a circular motion for 1–2 minutes until the risotto is glossy, creamy, and flows in a slow wave when you tilt the pan — all'onda. This is the mantecatura: off-heat is non-negotiable.

Gently fold in the reserved mussel and clam meat. Taste for salt — the shellfish liquid is already salty, so add carefully. A few turns of black pepper.

Divide between two warm bowls. Drizzle lightly with olive oil, scatter the parsley over, and serve immediately. Risotto does not wait.