Puntarelle alla Romana: Rome's Bitter Winter Salad with Anchovy Dressing

Remove the large outer leaves of the puntarelle and set them aside for another use — wilted with garlic, olive oil, and chili, they're worth cooking separately. You want the inner pale-green cone of hollow shoots.

Separate the inner shoots and slice each one lengthwise into very thin strips, 2–3 mm wide at most. A taglia puntarelle gives the most consistent results; with a knife, work carefully and keep the cuts uniform. Strip thickness determines whether they will curl — fat strips won't curl regardless of soak time.

Transfer the strips to a large bowl of genuinely cold ice water. Let soak for at least 45 minutes — up to 3 hours at room temperature, or overnight in the fridge. The strips will curl into tight spirals as they chill and shed some of their bitterness.

While the puntarelle soaks, make the dressing: peel and halve the garlic cloves, remove any green shoot, and pound them in a mortar with a small pinch of salt until reduced to a smooth paste.

Add the anchovy fillets to the mortar and work them into the garlic paste with the pestle until you have a rough, textured paste — small chunks of anchovy in the finished dressing are correct, not a flaw.

Stream in the olive oil a little at a time, working the pestle in a circular motion to incorporate it. Add the white wine vinegar and stir to combine. The dressing should be emulsified but textured, not uniformly smooth.

Drain the puntarelle and dry them thoroughly — spin in a salad spinner or pat with a clean towel until they're genuinely dry. Wet shoots dilute the dressing and prevent it from coating the curls.

Place the puntarelle in a serving bowl, pour over the anchovy dressing, and toss well to coat. Grind over black pepper and taste before adding any salt — the anchovies already contribute significant saltiness. Serve immediately.