Pasta e Fagioli: Roman Bean Pasta, Two Textures

Drain the soaked borlotti beans and rinse. (If using canned, drain and rinse two 400g cans — skip to step 3.)

In a large heavy pot, add the guanciale lardons with no oil. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the fat renders and the edges begin to crisp, about 5 min.

Add the olive oil, then the onion, celery, and carrot. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until completely soft and translucent, about 10 min. Do not rush this — the soffritto is the flavour base.

Add the tomatoes, crushing each one between your fingers as it goes into the pot. Stir and cook 2 min.

Add the beans, parmesan rind, and water or stock. The liquid should cover the beans by at least 4 cm — add more if needed. Bring to a gentle simmer.

Simmer uncovered until the beans are completely tender throughout, 40–45 min for pre-soaked dried beans. Test by biting one: no chalky centre. Do not salt yet.

Season generously with salt now. Using a slotted spoon, scoop out roughly one-third of the beans into a bowl and smash them into a rough paste with a fork or the back of the spoon. Stir the paste back into the pot.

Check the consistency: a spoon dragged through the pot should leave a clear trail for 2 seconds before the sides close in. If too thick, add a splash of hot water and stir; if too thin, simmer uncovered for a few minutes.

Add the ditali directly to the pot. Cook over a brisk simmer — not a rolling boil — stirring frequently to prevent sticking, until the pasta is just al dente, 8–10 min. The dish will continue to thicken off the heat.

Pull off heat. Remove and discard the parmesan rind. Rest 2–3 min.

Ladle into bowls. Finish each with a generous pour of raw extra-virgin olive oil and a crack of black pepper. Serve immediately.