Pasta alla Trapanese: Sicily's Raw Almond and Tomato Pesto

Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Salt it generously — at least 1 tbsp coarse salt per liter.

Score a small X on the base of each tomato. Drop into the boiling water for 30 seconds, transfer immediately to cold water, then peel. Halve, squeeze out seeds and excess juice, and roughly chop the flesh.

In a large mortar, pound the garlic clove with a generous pinch of coarse salt until it forms a smooth paste.

Add the blanched almonds and pound to a coarse, slightly gritty meal. Stop before it becomes smooth — you want texture, not almond butter.

Add the basil leaves in two or three batches and pound until they break down into the almond-garlic base and the mixture smells fragrant.

Add the chopped tomatoes. Work them in with the pestle, pressing and turning, until you have a chunky, rust-red pesto. It should look coarse, not pureed.

Stir in the grated pecorino, then drizzle in the olive oil and mix to combine. Taste and adjust salt. Set aside at room temperature.

Cook the busiate in the boiling salted water until just al dente (check the package — usually 8–12 min). Before draining, scoop out 1 cup (250 ml) of starchy cooking water.

Drain the pasta and immediately transfer it to the bowl of pesto. Do not put the pesto on the stove.

Add 3–4 tbsp of the reserved pasta water and toss vigorously until the pesto coats every strand. Add more cooking water a splash at a time if it looks dry.

Serve immediately in warm bowls. Extra pecorino and a thin drizzle of olive oil on top are welcome.