Osso Buco alla Milanese: The Braised Veal Shank That Defines Lombardy

Preheat oven to 160°C (325°F). Tie a piece of kitchen twine around the circumference of each veal shank — this holds the meat against the bone as the collagen breaks down during braising.

Season shanks generously on both sides with salt and pepper. Dust lightly in flour, shaking off any excess.

Heat butter and olive oil in a large Dutch oven over high heat until the butter foams and begins to brown. Sear shanks in 2 batches — 3–4 minutes per side — until deep golden. Do not crowd the pan; steam instead of sear destroys the fond. Remove shanks and set aside.

Reduce heat to medium. Add onion, carrot, and celery to the same pot. Cook 8–10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until softened and lightly golden.

Pour in white wine. Scrape up all the brown fond from the bottom of the pot — this is the flavour base. Simmer until wine reduces by half, about 4 minutes.

Add crushed tomatoes and stock. Stir to combine. Return shanks to the pot in a single layer; the liquid should reach halfway up their sides. Add more stock if needed.

Cover and braise in the oven for 1 hour 30 minutes to 2 hours. The meat is done when it pulls away from the bone with gentle pressure but the shank still holds its shape. Check at 45 minutes — it should be a bare simmer, not a boil; a rolling boil will toughen the veal.

While the shanks braise, mix parsley, lemon zest, and raw garlic in a small bowl. Set the gremolata aside at room temperature — it goes on at the end, never in the braise.

Remove pot from oven. Transfer shanks to a warm plate, tent with foil. If the sauce is too thin, reduce it on the stovetop over high heat, stirring, until it coats a spoon.

Snip and remove kitchen twine from each shank. Return shanks to the sauce and taste for salt.

Serve each shank over risotto alla milanese or polenta. Spoon sauce generously over the top. Scatter gremolata at the table. The marrow in the bone will be soft and spreadable — encourage diners to scoop it out with a small spoon. It is the best part.