Osso Buco alla Milanese with Gremolata

Tie kitchen twine around the circumference of each veal shank — one horizontal loop per piece, snug but not constricting. This stops the outer ring of muscle from pulling away from the bone as it contracts during the braise.

Pat the shanks completely dry with kitchen paper. Season all sides generously with salt and pepper. Just before searing (not ahead of time), dredge lightly in flour and shake off any excess. Pre-floured or damp shanks will steam rather than sear.

Heat butter and olive oil in a large, wide Dutch oven over medium-high heat until the butter foam subsides. Sear the shanks in batches — do not crowd the pan — 3–4 minutes per side undisturbed, until deeply golden. Set aside on a plate.

Reduce heat to medium. Add onion, carrot, and celery to the same pot. Cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and just beginning to colour, about 8 min.

Pour in the white wine and scrape up all the brown bits from the base of the pot. Let it reduce by about half, around 3 min.

Crush the San Marzano tomatoes by hand directly into the pot, then add the stock. Stir to combine and bring to a low simmer.

Return the shanks to the pot, marrow-bone cavity facing up. The liquid should come roughly halfway up the sides of the shanks. Adjust with a splash more stock if needed.

Cover and cook over the lowest heat that maintains a lazy, occasional bubble — or transfer to a 160°C (320°F) oven. Braise for 1 hour 45 minutes to 2 hours, until the meat is completely tender and just beginning to pull away from the bone. Check occasionally; a rolling boil will toughen the meat.

While the shanks finish, combine the parsley, lemon zest, and minced garlic in a small bowl to make the gremolata. Set aside; do not add it yet.

When the meat is tender, stir the gremolata into the braising liquid and cook for 2 minutes. Taste and adjust salt. Remove and discard the kitchen twine.

Serve each shank with the braising sauce spooned generously over the top. The marrow inside the bone will be soft and pale — scoop it out with a narrow spoon or spread it on a crust of bread. It is the richest bite of the meal.