Lagane e Ceci: The Ancient Pasta That Predates All Others

Soak the dried chickpeas in a large bowl of cold water for at least 12 hours or overnight. Drain and rinse thoroughly before using.

Place the soaked chickpeas in a large pot and cover with 1.5 litres of fresh cold water. Add the rosemary sprig and one whole unpeeled garlic clove. Bring to a boil, skim any foam, then reduce to a steady simmer. Cook for 35–45 minutes, until the chickpeas are very soft and some are beginning to crumble at the edges. Season generously with salt in the final 10 minutes. Remove and discard the rosemary sprig and the whole garlic clove.

While the chickpeas simmer, make the pasta dough. Mound the semolina on a clean work surface and make a well in the centre. Add the cold water gradually, mixing with a fork at first, then kneading by hand for 8 minutes until the dough is smooth and firm — noticeably stiffer than egg pasta dough. Wrap tightly and rest for 30 minutes at room temperature.

Divide the rested dough into two pieces. On a lightly semolina-dusted surface, roll each piece to a thickness of 2–3 mm. This is thicker than most pasta — resist the urge to roll thinner. Dust the sheets with semolina and let them dry for 5 minutes.

Tear or cut the dough sheets into irregular strips roughly 2 cm wide and 8–10 cm long. Ragged edges and uneven shapes are correct. Place on a semolina-dusted tray and set aside.

In a wide, deep saucepan, warm 3 tablespoons of the olive oil over medium heat. Slice the remaining two garlic cloves thinly and cook for 2 minutes until soft and fragrant but not coloured. Add the chili flakes and stir for 30 seconds.

Add the tomato paste and cook it into the oil for 1 minute, stirring constantly, until it deepens to a dark red. Add all the cooked chickpeas and their cooking liquid — you need at least 1 litre of broth. Bring to a steady simmer over medium-high heat.

Drop the lagane strips into the simmering chickpea broth. Stir immediately and vigorously to prevent sticking. Cook for 8–10 minutes, stirring every couple of minutes, until the pasta is tender with a little resistance at the centre and the broth has thickened noticeably.

Check the consistency: it should be all'onda — loose enough to ripple when you shake the pan. If the dish has tightened into a stew, stir in a ladleful of hot water and return briefly to a simmer.

Remove from heat. Drizzle the remaining olive oil over the surface and let the dish rest for 2 minutes — it will continue to thicken slightly. Serve in wide, shallow bowls with an extra pinch of chili flakes if wanted.