Culurgiones d'Ogliastra — The Wheat-Spike Pasta of Sardinia

Combine semolina flour and 1 tsp salt in a large bowl. Add 200 ml warm water and 2 tbsp olive oil, then knead on a lightly floured surface for 10–15 minutes until the dough is smooth, elastic, and no longer sticky. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.

Boil the potatoes (unpeeled) in well-salted water until completely tender, about 25 minutes. Drain, let them steam-dry for 5 minutes, then peel while still hot. Pass through a ricer or mash thoroughly — no lumps. Spread on a tray and allow to cool completely.

Crush 2 of the garlic cloves to a paste with a pinch of salt. Combine the cooled mash, 150 g grated Pecorino Sardo, 15 g chopped mint, garlic paste, and 1 tbsp olive oil. Season generously with black pepper; taste before adding any salt — the cheese contributes plenty. The filling should hold its shape when pressed; if it feels wet, air-dry on the tray for 10 more minutes.

Make the passata: warm 1 tbsp olive oil over medium heat. Add the remaining crushed garlic clove and cook 1 minute until fragrant but not browned. Pour in the 400 ml passata, season with salt, and simmer 10 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in the basil leaves. Set aside.

Divide the dough into 4 pieces, keeping unused pieces wrapped. Working one piece at a time, roll to about 1.5 mm thick using a pasta machine or rolling pin. Cut into 8 cm rounds with a cutter or glass.

Place 1 heaped teaspoon of filling in the centre of each round. Fold the dough over the filling into a half-moon shape. Now make the wheat-spike seam (spiga di grano): starting at one end, make small alternating folds from each side of the edge, pinching and tucking each fold slightly over the previous one. Aim for 10–12 folds that form a raised ridge down the centre. Practise the technique on scraps of dough before working through the whole batch — it is the defining skill of the dish.

Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a gentle simmer — not a rolling boil. Lower culurgiones in batches of 8–10 to avoid crowding. Cook 5–6 minutes, until they float to the surface and the seam looks set. Lift out with a spider or slotted spoon and drain briefly.

Rewarm the passata if needed. Spoon sauce into warmed shallow bowls, place culurgiones on top, add a little more sauce, and finish with extra grated Pecorino Sardo.