Coda alla Vaccinara: Rome's Slow-Braised Oxtail with Cocoa and Celery

Cover the raisins with warm water and leave to soak for 20 minutes. This softens them and takes the edge off the sharp sweetness — skip the soaking and they can taste harsh against the rich braise.

Pat the oxtail sections thoroughly dry with paper towel. Season all sides generously with salt and black pepper.

Heat a large Dutch oven or heavy braising pot over high heat. Add the olive oil and sear the oxtail in 2–3 batches, 3–4 minutes per side, until deeply browned on all surfaces. Do not pierce or prod the meat — leave it alone and let the crust form. A disturbed surface loses its seal and the meat will steam instead of sear. Remove each batch and set aside.

Reduce heat to medium. Add the guanciale and render for 2–3 minutes until the fat runs freely. Dice the onion, carrot, and 1 celery stalk finely, add them to the pot, and cook for 8–10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until soft and lightly golden.

Slice the garlic thinly and add to the pot with the bay leaves and whole cloves. Stir for 1 minute until fragrant.

Return all the oxtail to the pot. Pour in the white wine, scraping up any browned bits from the base. Let the wine reduce by half, about 3–4 minutes.

Pour in the passata and stir to coat the meat. The oxtail should be roughly half-submerged. Bring to a gentle simmer, cover tightly, and reduce to the lowest possible heat. If using the oven, transfer to 150°C (300°F). Braise for 2 hours.

After 2 hours, cut the remaining 6 celery stalks into 4 cm pieces. Add them to the pot, stir gently, re-cover, and continue braising for another 1.5 to 2 hours. Start checking at the 3-hour mark total: the dish is done when the meat slides cleanly off the bone with zero resistance. If it resists at all, give it more time.

Drain the raisins. Toast the pine nuts in a dry pan over medium heat for 2–3 minutes, stirring, until golden. Ladle about 100 ml of hot braising liquid into a small bowl and dissolve the cocoa powder completely into it — no dry lumps remaining. Stir the dissolved cocoa back into the pot.

Add the drained raisins and toasted pine nuts. Simmer uncovered for 10 minutes to bring everything together. Remove and discard the bay leaves and whole cloves.

Taste and adjust salt. Serve in deep bowls with crusty bread or polenta. Any leftover sauce — and there will be — is outstanding the next day over rigatoni.