Calzone Fritto: Naples' Original Deep-Fried Turnover

Combine the flour, yeast, and salt in a large bowl. Add 300 ml of lukewarm water and mix until a shaggy dough forms, then turn it out and knead for 8–10 minutes until smooth and elastic — it should spring back slowly when poked.

Shape into a ball, cover with a damp cloth or plastic wrap, and rest at room temperature for 1 hour. Alternatively, refrigerate overnight and bring to room temperature for 1 hour before shaping.

While the dough rests, drain the ricotta: set it in a fine-mesh strainer over a bowl and leave it for at least 30 minutes, pressing it gently every 10 minutes to release liquid. The drier it is, the better.

If using cicoli, crumble it roughly. If substituting guanciale or pancetta, dice it and fry in a dry pan over medium heat until the fat has fully rendered and the pieces are crispy, about 5 minutes. Drain on paper towels.

Mix the drained ricotta with the cicoli (or substitute) and a generous amount of cracked black pepper. Taste — the filling should be boldly seasoned since the plain dough wrapping it is not. Set aside.

Divide the rested dough into 4 equal pieces (about 200 g each). Roll each into a ball and let them rest on a floured surface, covered, for 15 minutes — this relaxes the gluten so the dough stretches without snapping back.

On a lightly floured surface, stretch or roll each ball into a circle roughly 22 cm across and about 3–4 mm thick. Don't go thinner than 3 mm or it may tear under the filling.

Place 2–3 heaped tablespoons of filling on one half of the circle, leaving a 2 cm border clear. If using fior di latte, tuck in a few small torn pieces now. Brush the border with beaten egg.

Fold the dough over the filling to form a half-moon. Working from the center outward, press firmly with your fingertips to push out any air pockets. Seal the edge with the heel of your hand, then fold the rim over itself and crimp tightly — run your thumb around it twice. A loose seal will split in the oil.

Pour 8–10 cm of oil into a heavy-bottomed pot (Dutch oven or cast iron). Heat to 175°C (345°F) — use a thermometer. Fry one or two calzone at a time to avoid dropping the temperature.

Lower each calzone gently into the oil. They will float immediately. Fry for 3–4 minutes per side, basting the exposed top continuously with hot oil using a ladle or spider skimmer. The crust should be deep golden, with darker blisters scattered across it.

Lift out with a spider skimmer and drain briefly on paper towels. Season immediately with a pinch of flaky salt. Eat at once — within 2 minutes the crust begins to soften and the whole point of the dish is gone.