Proper Amatriciana: Guanciale, San Marzano, Pecorino, Nothing Else

Bring 4 L of water to a boil in a large pot. Salt it well — about a heaped tablespoon.

Cut the guanciale into 1 cm strips (or larger 1.5 cm cubes for a chunkier result).

Warm the olive oil in a large wide skillet over medium-low heat. Add the guanciale and render slowly for 8–10 min, stirring occasionally, until the fat is mostly melted and the edges are golden. Do not rush this — you want silky fat, not crispy chips.

Remove the guanciale with a slotted spoon and set aside. Leave all the rendered fat in the pan.

Add the chili flakes to the fat over medium heat and stir for 30 seconds until fragrant.

Pour in the white wine. Let it bubble and evaporate completely, about 2 min — no alcohol smell should remain.

Crush the tomatoes by hand directly into the pan, discarding any tough cores. Season with cracked black pepper. Simmer over medium heat for 12–15 min until the sauce thickens slightly but still has some texture.

Return the guanciale to the pan and stir to combine.

Cook the bucatini until 2 min short of the package's al dente time. Reserve 200 ml of pasta water before draining.

Transfer the bucatini directly into the sauce. Add a splash of the reserved pasta water and toss over medium heat for 1–2 min until the sauce coats every strand and has a glossy, emulsified look.

Remove from heat. Add the pecorino in two batches, tossing vigorously between each addition. Serve immediately with extra pecorino and cracked pepper at the table.