Gran Bollito Misto with Salsa Verde and Salsa Rossa

Fill a large pot with well-salted water (15 g per litre). Bring to a full rolling boil. Halve the onion and char the cut sides in a dry pan over high heat for 3 minutes until blackened. Add the onion, carrots, celery, bay leaves, parsley stalks (reserve the leaves for the salsa verde), and peppercorns to the boiling water.

Lower the brisket into the boiling water — it should be fully submerged. Reduce heat immediately to a bare simmer: a few lazy bubbles breaking the surface, nothing more. Cook uncovered for 3 to 3.5 hours, skimming any grey foam in the first 20 minutes.

After 90 minutes, lower the chicken into the same pot. Return briefly to temperature if needed, then reduce again to a simmer. Continue cooking for a further 90 minutes, until the leg joint moves freely and juices run clear when the thigh is pierced.

Prick the cotechino casing in several places with a skewer. Place in a separate smaller pot, cover with cold water, bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Cook for 60 to 90 minutes (follow package instructions if using a pre-cooked cotechino).

Make the salsa verde: pound the garlic with a pinch of salt in a mortar until smooth. Add the anchovy fillets and capers and pound until both break down and absorb into the paste. Add the hard-boiled egg yolks and crush them in.

Add the reserved parsley leaves in two or three batches, pounding between additions until the sauce is roughly textured — not smooth. Stir in the red wine vinegar and olive oil. Taste: it should be sharp, bright green, and aggressively flavored. Adjust vinegar and salt. Set aside at room temperature.

Check the brisket at the 3-hour mark: a skewer should slide through with no resistance. Both meats should be done between 3 and 3.5 hours total.

Remove the cotechino from its cooking water and slice into 1.5 cm rounds. Lift the chicken and brisket from the broth and rest for 5 minutes. Carve the chicken into pieces; slice the brisket across the grain into 1 cm slices.

Arrange all three meats on a warmed platter and ladle a few spoonfuls of hot broth over the top to keep everything moist. Serve immediately with the salsa verde alongside. Strain and save the remaining broth — it is excellent the next day.