Yangzhou Fried Rice: Day-Old Rice, High Heat

Heat a wok over the highest heat possible until it is smoking. Add 25ml of the oil and let it shiver.

Pour in the beaten eggs and let them sit undisturbed for 10 seconds to set slightly, then scramble quickly into large, soft curds. Push them to the side of the wok.

Add the remaining oil. Add the shrimp and spread in a single layer. Let them cook undisturbed for 30 seconds until pink on one side, then stir briefly.

Add the cold rice. Break up any clumps with a spatula and press the rice against the wok surface to maximize contact. Stir-fry for 2-3 minutes, tossing every 30 seconds, until each grain is heated through and the rice begins to pop.

Add the char siu and peas. Toss to combine. Pour the soy sauce and oyster sauce down the sides of the wok rather than directly onto the rice so they sizzle and caramelize slightly.

Season with white pepper and salt to taste. Remove from heat. Add the sesame oil and most of the scallions. Toss once. Transfer to a serving plate and top with the remaining scallions.