Chinese Tomato and Egg Stir-Fry (番茄炒蛋)

Crack the eggs into a bowl and add a pinch of salt, 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of the water, and the Shaoxing wine if using. Beat until the whites and yolks are fully combined — about 30 seconds of deliberate whisking. The splash of water creates steam in the wok, which makes the curds lighter and more tender.

Heat a wok or large skillet over high heat until smoking hot. Add 22 ml (1½ tbsp) of the oil; it should shimmer immediately. Pour in the beaten eggs. Leave undisturbed for 5 seconds until the edges begin to set, then push from the edges inward with a spatula, forming large soft folds. Stop when the eggs are about 80% cooked — still slightly glossy, not dry, not rubbery. Remove to a plate immediately.

Return the wok to high heat. Add the remaining 22 ml (1½ tbsp) of oil. Add the scallion whites and garlic and stir-fry for about 20 seconds — just until fragrant, not browned. Two rounds of oil keeps both components tasting clean rather than greasy.

Add the tomato wedges and stir-fry over high heat for 2 minutes until they begin to soften and release their juice. Add the remaining water (30–45 ml — less if the tomatoes are very juicy). Continue cooking for 1–2 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes have broken down into a loose, glossy sauce with some pieces still holding their shape.

Add the remaining salt and the sugar. Stir to distribute and taste. The sugar is not optional — it is a seasoning that rounds the tomatoes' acidity. At ¼ tsp you should not be able to identify it as sweetness. If the tomatoes are sharp, add a second pinch.

Return the partially cooked eggs to the wok. Fold gently — two or three slow turns of the spatula — letting the eggs break into large irregular pieces and absorb some of the tomato sauce without disintegrating. Cook for 30 seconds; residual heat finishes them. Remove from heat, scatter the scallion greens over the top, and finish with a few drops of sesame oil if using. Serve immediately over steamed white rice.