Quesabirria — Birria-dipped tacos with melted Oaxacan cheese

Toast the guajillo and ancho chiles in a dry skillet over medium heat, pressing with a spatula, for 30 seconds per side until pliable and fragrant. Submerge in 500 ml boiling water and soak 20 minutes until soft.

Char the onion halves and garlic directly on the comal or over a gas burner until blackened on the cut sides, about 5 minutes. Char the tomatoes the same way until the skin blisters and blackens in spots.

Drain the chiles and transfer to a blender with the charred onion, garlic, tomatoes, chipotle, cinnamon, cloves, cumin, oregano, vinegar, and 250 ml of the chile soaking liquid. Blend 2 minutes until completely smooth. Pass through a medium sieve, pressing firmly; discard solids.

Season the short ribs generously with salt. Heat a large heavy pot or Dutch oven over high heat. Sear the ribs in batches until deeply browned on all sides, about 4 minutes per side. Set aside.

Pour the chile puree into the same pot over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring constantly, for 5 minutes until it darkens slightly and smells toasty. Add the beef stock and return the ribs to the pot. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to the lowest setting. Cover and braise 3–3.5 hours until the meat pulls easily from the bone.

Transfer the ribs to a board. Let cool 10 minutes, then shred the meat, discarding bones and any hard fat. Taste the consomé and adjust salt. Skim the red-orange fat from the surface and reserve it in a small bowl — this is your tortilla dipping fat.

Heat a comal or cast-iron griddle over medium-high heat. Dip a tortilla briefly into the reserved red fat, coating both sides. Lay it on the hot griddle. Add a small handful of shredded beef and a generous amount of pulled cheese to one half. Fold the tortilla over and press firmly with a spatula.

Cook 2 minutes until the bottom is crisp and the cheese begins to ooze. Flip and cook 1 minute more. Repeat with remaining tortillas.

Serve immediately with a cup of hot consomé for dipping, topped with diced onion and cilantro. Pass lime wedges at the table.