Pav Bhaji — Mumbai's buttery spiced mash

Peel and cube the potatoes. Boil potatoes, cauliflower, and frozen peas together in salted water for 15 minutes until very soft. Drain and reserve 120 ml of the cooking water.

In a wide heavy pan or tawa, melt 40 g butter over high heat. Add the onion and capsicum and cook for 8 minutes until the onion is golden.

Add garlic and ginger. Cook for 2 minutes until the raw smell drops.

Add the tomatoes, pav bhaji masala, chili powder, and turmeric. Cook for 8 minutes, pressing the tomatoes down, until thick and the fat separates.

Add the boiled vegetables and the reserved cooking water. Use a potato masher to mash everything together — coarse and spreadable, not smooth.

Season with salt and simmer for 5 minutes, stirring to prevent sticking. Add a splash more water if it stiffens.

Off the heat, stir in the remaining 20 g butter and lemon juice. Cover and rest for 2 minutes while you toast the pav.

Slice the pav rolls horizontally. Heat a tawa over high heat. Add the remaining 30 g butter and press the cut faces of the rolls into it. Toast for 90 seconds until deeply golden.

Serve the bhaji topped with finely diced raw onion and fresh coriander, pav alongside.