Tandoori Pomfret: Charred Coastal Indian Fish Without a Tandoor

Score the pomfret diagonally on both sides — 3 to 4 cuts per side, through the skin and 1 cm into the flesh. Without deep scoring, the marinade stays on the surface and the fish interior stays bland even when the outside chars beautifully. If the fishmonger has already scored it, check the depth and deepen the cuts if needed.

Mix half a teaspoon of salt with 1 tablespoon of lemon juice. Rub this all over the fish — on both sides, into every score, and inside the cavity. Set aside for 15 minutes. This first rub is non-negotiable: it opens the flesh and draws out any surface moisture before the yogurt marinade arrives. Home cooks who skip it end up with fish that tastes of marinade on the outside and nothing inside.

While the fish rests, make the marinade. In a large bowl, whisk together the yogurt, ginger-garlic paste, Kashmiri chili powder, ground coriander, ground cumin, garam masala, mustard oil, remaining 2 tablespoons of lemon juice, turmeric, and remaining half-teaspoon of salt. Crush the kasuri methi between your palms over the bowl before adding — this releases the volatile oils and is what gives the dish its distinctive restaurant note. Whisk until smooth.

Pat the fish dry with a paper towel, then coat it thoroughly in the marinade, working it into every score and the cavity. Reserve 3 to 4 tablespoons of marinade in a small bowl for basting later — set this aside in the fridge. Place the coated fish on a plate, cover with cling film, and refrigerate for at least 4 hours. The sweet spot is 6 to 10 hours; overnight is ideal. Do not exceed 12 hours — the lactic acid will begin to break down the delicate flesh beyond tenderness.

Remove the fish from the fridge 20 minutes before cooking to take the chill off — a cold fish hitting a hot pan extends cook time and risks charring the exterior before the centre is done. Mix the reserved marinade with 1 teaspoon of melted ghee to make a basting mixture.

Heat a large cast-iron griddle or heavy grill pan over high heat for a full 5 minutes until smoking. The surface must be hot enough to instantly sear the marinade coating — a pan that isn't hot enough will steam the fish and the marinade will stick rather than char and release. Lightly brush the hot surface with oil. Carefully lay the pomfret on the griddle and press it gently with a spatula for the first 30 seconds to ensure full contact between the marinade and the hot surface.

Cook the first side for 5 to 6 minutes without moving the fish. Resist the urge to check or adjust it — the fish will release cleanly from the pan when it's ready to flip. If it's sticking, the pan isn't hot enough and it needs more time. When the underside has a proper char and the fish lifts easily, slide two spatulas underneath and flip carefully — pomfret is delicate and will break if you force it.

Immediately baste the cooked side with the reserved marinade-ghee mixture. Cook the second side for 4 to 5 minutes until charred and the flesh near the bone is opaque when tested with a knife tip. Total cook time should be 10 to 12 minutes depending on the fish's thickness. Oven broiler method: preheat to maximum with the rack 8 to 10 cm from the element. Place the fish on a wire rack over a foil-lined tray. Broil for 6 to 7 minutes per side, basting after the flip.

Transfer the fish to a serving plate. Dust immediately with a pinch of garam masala and squeeze half a lemon over the whole thing. While the fish was cooking, soak the sliced red onion in the remaining lemon juice with a pinch of salt for 10 minutes — this removes the raw bite and turns them a vivid pink. Serve the fish with the pink onions alongside, lemon wedges, fresh green chutney, and naan or laccha paratha.