Som Tam (Green Papaya Salad)

Peel the green papaya and shred into thin matchsticks using a julienne peeler or knife. Julienne the carrot if using. Trim the green beans and cut into 2–3 cm lengths. Halve the cherry tomatoes.

In a large mortar (or a sturdy bowl with a pestle), pound the garlic and chili into a coarse paste, about 30 seconds of firm pounding. This breaks down the cell walls and releases the oils.

Add the palm sugar and pound until dissolved, about 20 seconds. Pour in the lime juice, fish sauce, and dried shrimp if using. Stir and lightly pound to combine, about 10 seconds.

Add the green beans and tomatoes. Pound lightly—just enough to bruise the beans and burst the tomatoes so their juice mixes into the dressing, about 15 seconds.

Add the papaya and carrot. Pound gently and toss with the pestle to coat the strands in the dressing without turning them mushy, about 30 seconds. The papaya should soften slightly but stay crisp.

Transfer to plates, scatter the roasted peanuts on top, and serve immediately while the papaya is still crunchy.