Lamb Kofta with Yogurt-Cucumber Sauce and Sumac Onions

Make the sumac-onion salad first: toss thinly sliced red onion with sumac, lemon juice, and salt in a bowl. Set aside at room temperature for at least 30 minutes — the sumac will macerate the onion, pulling out moisture and turning it bright pink. Stir in the chopped parsley just before serving.

Make the yogurt-cucumber sauce: grate the cucumber on the coarse side of a box grater, then transfer to a clean kitchen towel and squeeze firmly until no more liquid comes out. Combine the drained cucumber with yogurt, garlic, mint, lemon juice, and salt. Stir well, taste for seasoning, drizzle with olive oil, and refrigerate until serving.

Grate the onion on the coarse side of a box grater into a bowl, then transfer to a clean kitchen towel and wring out every drop of liquid — the onion must be genuinely dry. Wet onion introduces too much moisture and will cause the kofta to fall apart on the grill.

Combine the lamb, drained onion, egg, garlic, parsley, mint, cumin, allspice, coriander, cinnamon, cayenne, salt, and pepper in a large bowl. Mix with your hands for 2–3 minutes, working the mixture until it becomes sticky and slightly elastic — this activates the myosin proteins that bind the meat and keep the kofta on the skewer. The mix should hold a firm shape when squeezed. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes, up to overnight.

Divide the chilled mixture into 8 equal portions (about 110 g each). With wet hands, press each portion firmly around the upper third of a flat metal skewer, forming a cylinder 12–15 cm long and about 2.5 cm in diameter. Squeeze firmly as you shape — any air pockets will cause the kofta to crack and slide during cooking. Press a few toasted pine nuts into the exterior of each kofta if using.

To grill over charcoal: light the coals and let them burn down to white-hot embers with no visible flame. Grill the kofta directly over the coals for 4–5 minutes per side, turning once, until the exterior is deeply charred in spots and the internal temperature reaches 68°C (155°F). The meat should be just barely pink in the very center.

Broiler method: preheat the broiler to maximum heat with the oven rack 10 cm from the element for 10 minutes. Lay the skewers across a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet so the kofta are suspended above the pan. Broil for 4–5 minutes per side until deeply browned with dark charred spots and 68°C (155°F) internally.

Rest the kofta for 3–4 minutes off heat before sliding them off the skewers — this lets the juices redistribute and the fat set slightly so they stay moist on the platter. Serve immediately with the yogurt-cucumber sauce, the sumac-onion salad (stir in the parsley now if you haven't), and warm pita or flatbread.