Aioli

Place the garlic cloves and salt in a large, heavy mortar. Pound and grind until you have a completely smooth paste with no visible fibrous strands — this takes 4–5 minutes of consistent work. The salt abrades the garlic and helps form the paste.

Add the olive oil no more than half a teaspoon at a time, working the pestle in slow circles after each addition. The paste must absorb each addition fully before the next one goes in.

As more oil is absorbed, the paste will lighten from grey-green to ivory and begin to thicken and pull away from the sides of the mortar.

Increase additions very gradually to a thin trickle only when the sauce is clearly stable and thick — this usually takes the first 50 ml of oil. After that, you can add the remaining oil in a slightly faster stream.

The finished aioli should be pale ivory, thick enough to hold its shape, and glossy. Taste: it should taste strongly of raw garlic and good olive oil, with salt in balance. Use immediately or refrigerate for up to 24 hours.