
Carnitas — Michoacán pork shoulder, crisped to order
Carnitas is pork shoulder cooked low and slow in its own fat, then crisped hard at the end. The two-stage cook is the whole point.
01 / Cuisines · North American
Salsa, masa, smoke, time.
02 / Intro · The shape of it
Mexican cuisine is what UNESCO calls "intangible cultural heritage" — corn, beans, and chili threaded across two thousand years of cooking and refined into one of the world's three or four most influential national cuisines. The cliché of "Mexican food" outside Mexico (gloopy cheese, ground beef in a hard shell) misses the actual range: ceviches in Veracruz, mole in Oaxaca, cochinita pibil in Yucatán, birria in Jalisco, al pastor in Mexico City. None of them rhyme.
The structural ingredient is masa — corn that's been nixtamalized, ground, and either pressed into tortillas or thinned into atole. Everything else is built around it. A tortilla is the plate, the spoon, the napkin, and half of the dinner.
Souschef's Mexican recipes will work with what you can get in Berlin, London, or Brooklyn — dried chiles by mail, fresh corn tortillas when you can find them, decent cotija from the Lateinamerika import shop. We'll teach you to toast and re-hydrate guajillo and ancho, to char tomatillos under the broiler, and to fix bad guacamole.
03 / Techniques · The four that matter
Stem and seed the chiles, then press them flat on a dry cast-iron pan for 15–30 seconds per side until they smell smoky and start to puff. Soak in hot water for 20 minutes. The base of nearly every Mexican sauce.
Tomatoes, tomatillos, onion, and garlic blackened under high heat until the skin blisters. The char becomes the smoke in the salsa.
If you have access to dried corn, calcium hydroxide, and a few hours, you can make masa from scratch. If not, Maseca or fresh masa from a tortillería is a reasonable shortcut.
Long marinades in lime, sour orange, and chile paste denature the proteins on the surface — the basis of ceviche, al pastor, and most of the country's grilled meats.
04 / Soundtrack · Boleros de Oro & Rancheras
05 / The library · 48 mexican recipes

Carnitas is pork shoulder cooked low and slow in its own fat, then crisped hard at the end. The two-stage cook is the whole point.

Mole poblano is a project, not a quick dinner. Clear a Sunday, toast carefully, and the sauce will outlast the afternoon.

Pozole is the weekend broth — slow-cooked pork shoulder and bloomed hominy in a deep chile broth, served with enough toppings to make every bowl different.

Birria is beef stewed in dried-chile adobo until it falls apart, served with the braising liquid as consomé. Dip a tortilla in the fat, griddle it, fill it with the meat, and dunk the whole taco back in.

Cochinita pibil is Yucatán's buried-fire pork: marinated in achiote and sour orange, wrapped in banana leaves, and slow-cooked until it shreds under a fork.

Enchiladas verdes are tortillas dipped in tomatillo salsa, filled with shredded chicken, and baked under more salsa. The tortilla should go in soft, not crispy.

Chiles en nogada is a September dish — roasted poblanos filled with spiced pork and fruit picadillo, blanketed in walnut cream, and scattered with pomegranate seeds and parsley.

Huevos rancheros is fried eggs on fried tortillas, drowned in a comal-charred tomato salsa. It is a breakfast, not a brunch project.

Tinga is shredded chicken braised in a chipotle-tomato sauce. It goes on tostadas, into tacos, or tucked into quesadillas — make more than you think you need.

Salsa verde is charred tomatillo and jalapeño, blended with onion and cilantro. The charring is not optional — it is what separates this from a salad dressing.

Salsa roja is charred tomato and chile de árbol, blended roughly and finished in hot oil. It is the base sauce for half of Mexican cooking.

Guacamole is mashed avocado with lime, salt, onion, chile, and cilantro. The technique is a mortar, not a food processor. Chunky is correct.

Chilaquiles is yesterday's tortillas fried crisp and then drenched in hot salsa until they begin to soften. The timing window between too crispy and too soggy is about two minutes.

Enchiladas rojas are corn tortillas dipped in guajillo-mulato sauce, rolled with meat, and baked. The red is from the dried chiles, not from a jarred sauce.

Chiles rellenos are roasted poblanos stuffed with melting cheese, dipped in egg batter, fried until golden, and served in a plain cooked tomato sauce. Do not skip the batter.

Arroz rojo is rice toasted in oil until golden, then cooked in a tomato broth. Each grain should be separate, red, and cooked through — not clumped and not wet.

Quesabirria are tortillas dipped in birria fat, filled with braised beef and Oaxacan cheese, then pressed on a griddle until the cheese melts and the tortilla turns a deep, brick-red. Serve with the consomé for dipping.

Tinga is shredded chicken simmered in a tomato and chipotle sauce with caramelised onion. Pile it on fried tortillas with refried beans, crema, and fresh garnishes and you have one of the most satisfying lunches in Mexico City.

Agua de jamaica is Mexico's most iconic cold drink — dried hibiscus flowers steeped in hot water, sweetened, and served cold over ice. The color is a saturated burgundy that turns magenta when diluted, and the flavor is bracingly tart with notes of cranberry and rose.

Mexican arroz con leche is short-grain rice simmered slowly in whole milk with cinnamon and orange zest until each grain is swollen and the pudding holds its shape on a spoon. It is denser and less sweet than its Spanish cousin, served at room temperature or cold.

Tres leches cake is a light sponge soaked overnight in a mixture of whole milk, evaporated milk, and sweetened condensed milk until every cell of the crumb is saturated. The result is not wet — it is impossibly tender, trembling slightly, topped with barely sweetened whipped cream.

Mexican churros are ridged cylinders of fried choux-adjacent dough, rolled in cinnamon sugar and served with a thick, dark Mexican chocolate sauce for dipping. They are street food, carnival food, and breakfast food simultaneously.

Champurrado is the thick, warm, chocolate-spiked atole that vendors serve from clay pots alongside tamales throughout Mexico — particularly on Día de los Muertos and at posadas. Made with masa harina, Mexican chocolate, and piloncillo, it is thicker than hot chocolate and more deeply flavored than any powder-mix version.

Tortas ahogadas are Guadalajara's signature sandwich — carnitas in a crusty birote roll, soaked (drowned) in a ferocious chile de árbol tomato sauce and eaten immediately, ideally standing up. The sauce is not decoration; the entire sandwich is submerged.

Caldo tlalpeño is a Mexico City classic — a smoky, dark-orange broth of chicken and chickpeas spiked with chipotle and finished with epazote. It takes its name from Tlalpan, a township south of the capital, and is the preferred Sunday family lunch soup.

Gorditas de elote are thick fresh corn patties cooked on a comal — not the savory masa gorditas filled with beans and cheese, but the sweet version made with blended fresh corn, masa harina, and a small amount of sugar. They are sold at morning markets across central Mexico, eaten plain or with crema and a pinch of salt.

Frijoles de la olla are whole beans cooked from scratch in water with onion, garlic, and epazote. Every other bean preparation in Mexican cooking starts here.

Refritos means fried well, not fried twice. The beans are cooked from scratch, then mashed and fried in lard until creamy and thick enough to hold their shape on a plate.

Pico de gallo is a raw salsa — ripe tomato, white onion, serrano, cilantro, and lime. Nothing is cooked, nothing is blended, and the knife work shows.

Aguachile is raw shrimp marinated in a serrano-cucumber-lime water until the acid just cures the surface. It is served within minutes of assembling — the shrimp should be rare in the center.

A tlayuda is a large, partially dried Oaxacan tortilla griddled until crispy, spread with asiento (unrefined pork fat), black beans, quesillo, and your choice of toppings. It eats like a pizza.

Sopa de tortilla is a tomato-chipotle broth with crispy fried tortilla strips and cold avocado added at the last second. The contrast between the hot broth and the cold, creamy avocado is the dish.

Baja fish tacos are battered white fish served in a double tortilla with shredded cabbage, chipotle crema, and lime. The batter should be light enough to shatter, not a crust.

Flautas are corn tortillas rolled tightly around seasoned chicken and fried until completely rigid. They should snap when you bite into them, not bend.

Elotes are charred corn on the cob covered in crema, mayonnaise, chile powder, lime, and cotija cheese. The char comes first — without it, you have corn with toppings, not a street corn.

Red pork tamales are the Christmas tamale — braised pork shoulder in guajillo-ancho adobo, folded into beaten masa and steamed in corn husks. Make them in a large batch; they freeze perfectly.

Sopa de lima is the Yucatecan soup built on sour Mexican lime (lima agria) and a base of charred onion, tomato, and chicken. The fried tortilla strips are added at the last moment.

Esquites are elotes in a cup — corn kernels cooked in butter with epazote, then served in a cup with all the same toppings as street corn. The butter and epazote are not optional.

Salsa macha is a dried chile condiment from Veracruz — crispy fried chiles, peanuts, and sesame in warm oil, blended to a coarse paste. It goes on everything.

Pozole verde swaps the guajillo-ancho red base for a tomatillo-pepita green sauce. It is the lighter version — brighter, more herbal — but no less serious.

Mexican shrimp ceviche is raw shrimp cured in lime juice for 20–30 minutes until the flesh turns opaque, then combined with tomato, cucumber, avocado, and serrano chile.

Caldo de pollo is the Mexican chicken broth — bone-in chicken simmered with charred onion, garlic, and epazote until the broth is rich and the meat is tender enough to eat as-is.

Quesadillas de flor de calabaza are corn masa quesadillas filled with squash blossoms and Oaxacan string cheese, cooked directly on a comal. No flour tortillas, no skillet, no oven.

Gorditas are fat corn masa cakes stuffed with chicharrón prensado (pressed pork crackling), fried until the exterior is golden and the inside is soft. Split them open and the steam escapes.

Camarones a la diabla is shrimp tossed in a fire-red árbol-guajillo sauce cooked hot and fast. It should be spicy enough to be called diabla without being inedible.

Tamales de rajas are masa parcels filled with roasted poblano strips and melting cheese, wrapped in corn husks and steamed. The masa must be light enough to pull away from the husk cleanly.

Pepián verde is a pre-Hispanic sauce built on toasted pumpkin seeds, tomatillos, and green chiles. It is the lighter, greener sibling of mole — rich but not heavy, and faster to make.

Sopes are thick corn masa rounds with pinched-up edges, cooked on a comal, fried briefly in oil, and loaded with refried beans and toppings. The shape is the difference between a sope and everything else.
06 / FAQ · The cook's questions
Guajillo. Mild, fruity, available in most spice shops or online. It's the workhorse of Mexican sauces and forgives mistakes.
No — they're traditional in northern Mexico (Sonora, Chihuahua) where wheat grows better than corn. Outside that region they're for burritos and quesadillas, not tacos.
Oxidation. Press plastic wrap directly onto the surface to cut off the air, or stir in lime juice and salt right when you mash it. Skip the avocado pit trick — it only protects the bit it's touching.